Mt Dorje Lhakpa lies in the Langtang region of Nepal which is visible from Kathmandu valley. This mountain has a elegant pyramid-shaped figure and is popular for photographers and mountaineers. The first attempt and successful climb recorded is by a Japanese expedition in the late 1960s by the west ridge. Another attempt was made by a 7 members-team of Italian expedition during the fall of 1989, again from the west ridge.
The first attempt and successful climb recorded is by a Japanese expedition in the late 1960s by the west ridge.In 1986, a german-nepalese expedition (Klaus Stark (leader of the expedition), Mathias Rau, Helmut Müller, Bernd Mayer (doctor), Thomas Oeser from T.A.K. (Turner-Alpen-Kränzchen), a german section of the DAV, german alpine club, and the nepalese Joint-Members Ang Pasang (Sirdar) and Pemba Tharke) reached the mountain from the southern Balephi Khola and attempt to climb it over the west ridge. On the 7.11.1986, Helmut Müller, Bernd Mayer reached the summit separately, Müller is forced to bivouac while descending.
An other attempt was made by a 7-members-team Italian expedition ADC89 during fall of 1989, again from the west ridge and approach from south. The climb was stopped after Camp 1 at approx 6100m due to instable snow and avalanche danger on the ridge. In the following years (1991) a German expedition successfully climbed the mountain again by the west ridge. In 1992, Carlos Buhler made a solo climb of Dorje Lhakpa. Buhler did not intend initially to climb solo. The climb became a solo of the West Ridge after Carlos' partner, Jon Aylward, became ill at base camp. The climb is described in Carlos' 1992 American Alpine Journal article "Alone on Dorje Lhakpa".Another successful expedition was a French team of 4 in 2001.
At the solid mass of Jugal Himal Nepal is located Mount Dorje Lakpa it is in the east of the Langtang Valley and south of mount Shishapangma in Tibet. The normal route for the peak is described below.
A good technique in ice is essential and we envisage placing fix ropes in the favorable places, which will help us to achieve our goal.
Camp 1 will be at an altitude of 5400m and is well sheltered. Camp 2 will be at an altitude of 6100m, which do not exceed 40' and is visible from the Base Camp. As per the condition of the climate during climbing, we may have to place a safety camp between summit and camp II. After the summit, we will dismantle the high camps and return by the same route.
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu & Transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Prepared Expedition in Kathmandu.
Day 03: Expedition briefing.
Day 04: Drive Kathmandu to Syabru Besi.
Day 05: Shyabru Besi - Lama Hotel.
Day 06: Lama Hotel - Langtang Village.
Day 07: Langtang village - Kyangjin Gompa.
Day 08: Kyangjing Gompa – Yak Kharka.
Day 09: Yak Khark – Lakpa Dorje - Base Camp.
Day 10-28: Climbing Lakpa Dorje (6,966m).
Day 29: Base Camp – Yak Kharka.
Day 30: Yak Khark - Langtang Village.
Day 31: Langtang Village - Lama Hotel.
Day 32: Lama Hotel – Shyabru Besi.
Day 33: Drive Kathmandu & Transfer to Hotel.
Day 34: Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 35: Transfer to Airport for Final Departure.
The following basic equipment checklist should help you with your packing. Please remember that you should always try to keep the weight of your equipment down to a minimum. NB. This is just a check-list. We are not asking you to bring everything on this list; much will depend on personal preference. As a general rule, cyclists will need similar clothing to trekkers. The one additional (essential) item is good quality padded cycling shorts (loose and baggy, as previously discussed).
- Cycling helmet
- Fleece headband (to keep your ears warm)
- Lightweight long sleeved thermal shirt
- Lightweight windproof biking jacket
- T-shirts (3)
- Padded cycling shorts - baggy style
- Underwear (4 pairs)
- Lightweight trekking boots
- Camelbak or 2 x 1 litre water bottles & cages
- Sleeping bag
- Small padlock & spare keys
- Fingerless biking gloves
- Waterproof (breathable) jacket
- Fleece jumper (eg Polartec 200)
- Light weight ‘trekking style’ pants
- Warm cycling tights
- Socks (4 pairs)
- Cycling shoes
- Spare laces
- Small towel
- First aid kit (See first Aid medicine above)
- Head lamp eg. Petzl Zoom (spare bulb & battery)
- 4 large plastic bags (for keeping items dry in kitbag)
In addition to the checklists for general and trekking equipment above, and depending on the trip you have chosen, various items of mountaineering equipment may also be required, eg:
- Plastic boots and crampons (preferably step-in bindings) with front points.
- Mountaineering harness.
- Mountaineering ice-axe (60-75cms long depending on your height and personal preference.)
- 120cms (4ft) climbing sling and two locking carabineers
- Telescopic ski-sticks (optional)
- Prussik loops
- Climbing helmet (optional)
Most if not all of this equipment will be needed for any trip that crosses steep, snow-covered ground, or which includes sections of glacier travel. Our recommendation that you take no more than 15 kilos (33 pounds) of trekking equipment does not include your plastic boots, ice axe, crampons or harness/carabineers. (During the trek, climbing hardware will be carried separately from your personal trek bag, in group bags until needed).
02nd April- 06th May 2017
10th Sep-14th Oct 2017
01st April- 05th May 2018
09th Sep-13th Oct .2018